Big City Life

We have been living it up in the big cities these past two weekends. First it was Busan and then it was Seoul! I love big cities, there is something so mesmerising about them!

UN Memorial Cemetery in Busan

On our recent trip to Gyeongju and then Busan, we made it our mission to not only enjoy the splendour that is Korean food and custom, but to also go out, and actively experience the culture and history that is so abundant in this wonderful country. Gyeongju is practically the hub of one of Korea's three great dynasties, the Silla Dynasty, which reigned from 57B.C-935. With this being as it is, there is an huge amount to be seen and experienced in Gyeongju, most of it, obviously, relating to the Silla Dynasty.


Having left Gyeongju, we moved on to Korea's second largest city after Seoul, the wonderful harbour city of Busan. Busan was a truly amazing experience. We headed in to Busan, not too sure what to expect, having previously only been to Seoul, as far as big cities in Korea go. Busan is more than a scaled down version of Seoul. It has a life that is all its own. I'm not sure what it stems from, but my guess is that the energy in Busan stems from it being a coastal town. Back home, in South Africa, coastal towns have a very definite vibe to them that is not to be found anywhere inland.


As part of our 'cultural tour' we figured we'd go explore some of the historically significant places that are to be found in Busan. One of these was the UN Memorial Cemetery, located in the Uamdong area of Busan. Looking at it from the outside, there is not much that hints at the significance of the cemetery. The entrance is very clean and simple, with a uniformed guard standing at the main gate to great you upon entry. Walking through the main gate, you see a couple of signs, which guide you to the various parts of the cemetery. One thing that stands out in my mind, was a gold plaque attached to the main gate, simply stating that this is a cemetery and the utmost respect must be shown to the deceased resting inside.

The first part of the cemetery we had a look at was the actual grave sites.

The cemetery is broken down into various sections, which soldiers being buried with their fellow countrymen.

Walking through the cemetery, it is incredibly haunting and disturbing, when one reads the inscriptions on the graves:

These are three random graves. What bothers me is the age of the soldiers that put their lives on the line. Most of the graves had numbers ranging from 19-24 on them. There we several graves with soldiers older than 25, and also a bothersome amount with soldiers younger than 19. There is also a special memorial in place for the youngest soldier who died during the war, J. P. Daunt, a 17 year old Australian boy.

I have walked through many a cemetery, and never been moved the way that this place moved me. People die. That is a fact of life. People die at the age of 80, and unfortunately many people die much younger. The people buried in this cemetery didn't die. They gave their lives for others. These were not soldiers defending their own country (the exception being the Korean soldiers), these were soldiers fighting under the banner of the UN, in order to defend South Korea during the  Korean War.

                                       

Walking through the cemetery, and passing grave after grave after grave, and seeing that most of these soldiers were younger than I am now is haunting and moving. Claudia, who is usually quite composed, started crying after being completely overwhelmed by the insanity of it all. It's difficult to comprehend how so many people were so willing to give their lives for the sake of others.

I take my hat off, and bow deeply, to the soldiers that gave their lives in aid of others during this and any other war!

It is a properly moving experience to walk through a cemetery like this, one is simply beyond being able to put it in words. One needs to visit a place like this, and take it all in on a more personal level. Standing in front of hundreds of graves, reading the names of soldiers and the messages left by loved ones, makes it all too real - just how scary and destructive any war is.

                                     

This is the Wall of Remembrance memorial, which is basically built up of dozens of meters of walls, each wall inscribed with the name of a Soldier who died during the war.

                                     

Seeing a wall like this makes one wonder. It genuinely makes you sit down and think about how humans (or just Hollywood) have absolutely glorified war. How the soldier leaving on his tour through wherever is a brave hero who will do his country and his family proud. Men that serve their own countries, out of their own free will are brave. Men who serve other countries out of their own free will are heroes.

Brave and heroic as it might be, seeing this many names written on a wall in memory of these dead soldiers' forces you to realise just how nonsensical and absurd war really is.

                                      

"May you, who died fighting under the UN flag for freedom and peace, rest in peace!"

Post by Oliver

There's something fishy in Busan

The Jagalchi Fish Market is a cultural experience in itself, it is filled with so many sights, sounds and smells that vistors easily get consumed by the place for a couple of hours.

It is the largest fish market in Korea and when I say large I mean HUGE. There is a massive outside market where all sorts of fish (already dead) and other fresh produce are sold and then there is the indoor market where all the fish is sold alive.


For those of you who love the flavours of the sea (like we do...hmmmmm) this market is for you and for those of you who are fussy about the fish you eat then this place is also for you because there is such a variety of seafood that you are bound to find something you like.

 We were expecting to see meat there that shouldn't be there, like dolphin, but to our pleasant surprise we saw none. The only out of place fish we saw were two small sharks, which had obviously been accidently caught in the fishermen's nets. Furthermore, they didn't fly off the shelf like we expected because when we went back to the market a few hours later, they were still there. So I guess Shark meat isn't as sought after as I thought (I am purely basing this assumption purely on this one incident).

There were many small restaurants around the market which fried up their fresh fish with an array of delicious smelling spices. Other than ordinary fish, one of the most common items we saw for sale were octopi, but there were always alive and always trying their best to get out of the bucket of water they were being kept in.

Other common items included dried quid, sea urchins, giant crabs, small turtles, and sole. All of these were also available to be eaten at the fish market and you could decide just how fresh you would like it. Outside they had set dishes but at the indoor market you could walk past tanks of live fish, choose the one you like, watch them chop off its head and go upstairs and have it prepared the way you like it (whether that is fried or raw is up to you).

If you are animal lover and like to remain ignorant as to where you food comes from and how it is killed ten you might need to do some mental preparation before you go to the market because you WILL see one or two things that just don't sit well with you.

This is also the cheapest seafood you will find in Korea because the market is on the harbour which means that there is a constant supply of fish coming in! However, they will try take advantage if you are a foreigner so have your wits about you.

Like I said earlier though you can also buy other items at the market, such as giant green chillies (you never know how hot they will be. They are either sweet and make for a delicious snack or they are piping hot and ruin the rest of your meal and your next morning, if you know what I mean)

Despite the great prices and variety Oliver and I didn't eat at the fish market that day because we had had a bad experience at a restaurant the night before where live octopi where thrown on a grill right in front of our eyes.... But looking back it is one of our greatest regrets that we did not eat at the market and we are already planning to go back to Busan simply to eat at the market. I think it is a cultural encounter we deprived ourselves of!

Either way, the fish market is a great place to go and explore, even if you don't eat any fish, just walking around the harbour and market are a real treat!!!!

Post by Claudia

Great Gwangalli Beach

Busan is a large port in Asia and the second biggest city in South Korea. Although it's bigger brother Seoul has a lot to offer (and I mean a lot) Busan somehow manages to balance the relaxed atmosphere of a coastal town with the hustle and bustle of city living! So yes, we love Busan!

If ever you find yourself in Busan but you are not too sure where to stay, may I suggest Gwangan.

Gwangan (like most parts of Korea) has an individuality and a charm that is uniquely its own.

I have never seen skyscrapers so close to the ocean with a massive bridge stretching out over the sea. Gwangalli Beach was really something totally new for us.

When we tell people we went to Gwangalli Beach, many are surprised that we didn't go the South Korea's most famous beach "Haeundae Beach".

Well here's why we didn't:

Haeundae Beach is literally covered with umbrellas and people for as far as the eye can see! It is also more for people that are looking for a spring break type of vibe! So if that's what you after this is the place for you but unfortunatly it was not what we were after.

We were after something a little more relaxed, and Gwangalli Beach was perfect! Although it still has many people on it, it is nothing in comparison to Haeundae. Furthermore, it has a more family orientated, relaxed vibe. The type of place where you take long walks on the beach and try to find awesome sea shells (which we did by the way!).

Here is a photo of Gwangalli at night....spectacular isn't it?

However, one of the most impressive features about this beach is the bridge that covers the entire horizon. They have these awesome little DIY machines where you can take a photo of yourself with the bridge, for free! Pretty cool so we got a daytime and night time one:




Oliver got some great panoramics of the bridge, the symbol of Gwangalli Beach:


Another really cool thing about Gwangalli Beach is that on weekend the road running parallel to the beach is closed and takes on quite a festive atmosphere. There are street performances everywhere including men on stilts, jazz bands and puppet shows. What's more is you can have your picture painted or sketched by one of the many street artists or have a drink at a beach facing pub.


Just a short distance from the beach there is a complex which has tons of amusement park rides. It was here that I realised I am a complete and utter wimp! I screamed like baby on every ride.


Even the giant ferrece wheel got me going, we had such an amazing view (pity I was scared senseless).

We spent most of our days, exploring downtown Busan including the fish market, and the Busan tower (we will tell you more in posts to come) but Gwangalli Beach was a fantastic way to end the day!

It has the holiday vibe down to an art!

Just remember, if you want a budget deal for food and accommodation, go off the main road because if you don't you might find a big hole burning in your wallet.

Other than that, it is a great holiday destination!!!!

Post by Claudia